![]() Typical models have solid lines as the cut lines, dotted lines as "mountain" folds, and dot-dash lines as "valley" folds. Use your ruler and pen to "dent" the paper along the fold lines. Plan out your next two or three pieces and cut them out using scissors and exacto knife. chin, jaw, back of neck, mouth area, lower cheeks, ears, back of head, nose, upper cheeks, temples, back of head, etc. Pick a place to start on the helmet. Personally, I like starting at the chin and working my way back and up. Look at that glorious stack of card stock paper. If you purchased Pepakura designer, save your work. NOTE: If you are promted to change the scale before printing, DON'T. After making the above changes, you will most likely need to move the parts around the pages so that all the parts are inside the printable area of the page. Also set up the page layout and match it with the printer layout (portrait or landscape). Adjust margins to match what you printer can do. The most common paper size is letter or A4. Next, select the paper size you are using. Which ever sizing method you use, be warned that you may end up building your paper helmet more than once since the first attempt may end up too large or too small. Either adjust the height, width, or scale. Go back to the 405th forum and read every "Sticky" on scaling and sizing your armor. Silicon rubber for mold making Rotocasting rig. Specialty items (nice to have but may be beyond us): Things I wish I had. Detail sander or a sanding block Misc.: very small PC Fan, led, batteries, paper towels, shop towels, wires, screws. Safety Glasses 14 Dremel or other rotary tools. Pudding smells better, so i like to use that. Ketchup or mustard or Swiss Miss Pudding. Paints - Primer, silver, black, your prefered colors, and matte clear coat. Visor material - This will be the tricky one. Bondo or similar vehicle body repair putty. Fiberglass mat or cloth - only if you go with epoxy or polyester resin. Type used depends on budget and working environment. Resin - Epoxy, Polyester, or casting resin. Others use superglue, gorilla glue, or hot glue 3. A stack of Card Stock - Letter or A4 size. Ok, now for the tangible materials and tools Materials: 1. The NUMBER 1 supply you NEED is patience. ** 3D model CREDIT used for the helmet base goes to ForgedReclaimer. This project was inspired by the talented people in the 405th. While building the rest of the armor, make frequent visits to The Helmet build to refresh your memory on how to do things. So it is best to pay close attention to how the helmet is built. The rest of the armor creation process build upon the techniques used in PART 1. We will perservere and one day walk with head held up high covered from head to toe in HALO Armor goodness.Įverything we learn in Part 1 will be applied to Parts 2-5. Most who embark on armor building never get past this stage. ![]() Part 1 of the Halo 3 ODST Armor Project is the Helmet. To help unify all the instructables I also published a Table Of Contents (TOC) instructable for the Halo ODST Armor Build. The project is so large that I decided to break it down into five(5) Instructables: 1. Halo 1-3 Spartan permutations, ODST permutations, Halo Reach permutations, Iron Man permutations, samurai, etc. Although this instructable is specifically for the ODST, the instructable can be applied to any armor build - e.g. And we will end up spending money, ball park estimates on the low end around $300 for the entire suit. Along the way, we will be printing out 3D models unfolded into Pepakura files doing origami on steroids working with hazardous materials using power tools you may end up glueing your fingers together, your shoes to the floor or the cat to the couch. Build time will be from several months to over a year depending on level of detail and how determined you are. ![]() So you really want to do this? This is a big project. This is PART 1 of a 5 part series on a full ODST Armor you can wear. ![]()
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